Repair log for a Bobcat 883 G-series skid steer. The traction lock light blinks 5 to 6 times when the engine is running, the traction lock solenoid does not click, and the machine will not drive. This post tracks every test and result and gets updated as the repair goes on.
Status
Latest update 04OCT2026: the flash count is 5 to 6 (pull coil circuit fault). The fuse looks like it needs replacing. The solenoid plug is confirmed to have 3 wires. Next steps are the fuse, then the unplug test in Step 3.
Started 2026-10-04.
Symptom
- Lower the seat bar and press the green Press to Operate button. The traction light (P with a slash, labeled TRACTION) on the left panel blinks.
- The light flashes only when the engine is running.
- Flash count is about 5 to 6 flashes, then a pause.
- No click from the traction lock solenoid. The parking brake stays locked and the machine will not drive.
- Latest finding: it looks like it may need a new fuse.
- Confirmed: the solenoid plug has 3 wires (common, pull coil, hold coil).
What the flash code means
These codes come from forum posts, not the Bobcat manual. Confirm them with a dealer or the service manual.
- 1 flash: hold coil circuit open (broken wire or burned-out hold coil).
- 2 flashes: hold coil circuit shorted to battery voltage.
- 3 flashes: hold coil circuit shorted to ground.
- 4 flashes: solenoid unplugged or open (used in the unplug test below).
- 5 flashes: pull coil circuit shorted to battery voltage.
- 6 flashes: pull coil circuit shorted to ground. Either a bare wire is touching the frame, or the coil is shorted inside.
The solenoid has two coils. The pull coil is the strong one that yanks the lock pin out. The hold coil then holds it out. That is why the plug may have 3 wires.
Because it only happens with the engine running, suspect a wire rubbing on the frame from vibration, or a coil that shorts out when the alternator raises the voltage.
Safety for every test
- Park on level ground with the bucket flat on the ground. Block the wheels.
- Turn the engine off and take the key out before working under the cab.
- Make sure the cab is latched when tilted up. Use the lift arm support if the arms are up.
- When the lock pin releases, the machine can roll.
Step 1 - Fuse and relay
- Open the fuse panel. Find the brake or traction fuse (reported as 15 amp, so check the label).
- Test it with a meter, not just by looking.
- Replace it only with the SAME amp rating. Never use a bigger fuse.
- If the new fuse blows right away or as soon as you press the green button, there is a dead short. Go to Step 3 and do not keep feeding it fuses.
- Swap the brake relay with a matching relay from the same panel (for example the horn or lights relay) to rule out a bad relay.
Step 2 - Battery and charging voltage
- Engine off: should be 12.4 volts or more.
- Engine idling: should be 13.5 to 14.5 volts.
- Over about 15 volts: the alternator regulator is bad and can set off BICS.
- Clean and tighten both battery cables and the frame ground strap.
Step 3 - Unplug test (decides solenoid or wiring)
- Tilt the cab up. The solenoid is on top of the chaincase near the drive motors, under where your feet go.
- Unplug the harness from the solenoid.
- Lower the cab, start the engine, lower the seat bar, press the green button, and count the flashes.
- If the code changes to 4 flashes, the wiring is fine and the solenoid is shorted inside. Replace the solenoid.
- If it still flashes 5 or 6 times, the solenoid is fine. A wire is rubbed through somewhere between the fuse panel and the solenoid plug.
Step 4 - Find a rubbed wire (if the code stays at 5-6)
- Start at the solenoid plug and follow the harness toward the engine bay and the cab hinge.
- Look for shiny worn spots, melted insulation, or bare copper touching metal.
- Wiggle test: with the key on, wiggle the harness section by section. If the light changes when you move one spot, that is where the fault is.
- Repair with solder and heat shrink, then pad or re-route the harness so it can't rub again.
Step 5 - Meter tests on the solenoid
- The plug has 3 pins: one common (usually the ground side, often black), one for the pull coil and one for the hold coil.
- Find the common pin: it is the one that reads ohms to both of the other pins.
- Common to pull coil: very low, roughly under 1 ohm. No reading means the pull coil is burned open.
- Common to hold coil: higher, roughly 10 to 20 ohms. No reading means the hold coil is open.
- These ohm ranges are typical values, not from the Bobcat manual. Confirm with the dealer.
- Ohms from each pin to the solenoid's metal body should be no reading. Any reading means it is shorting to ground.
- Volts at the harness plug with the key on, the seat bar down and the green button pressed should be about 12 volts.
Step 6 - Jumper test (no meter)
- Engine off, wheels blocked, solenoid unplugged.
- Touch battery positive and negative to the solenoid pins for one second only.
- If it clicks, the solenoid works and the problem is upstream (fuse, relay or wiring).
- If there is no click, the solenoid is dead.
Step 7 - Clean the plunger and lock pin
- Unplug the solenoid, disconnect the linkage, unbolt the solenoid, and pull the plunger out.
- Clean the plunger, the coil tube, the lock pin and the pin's bore with brake cleaner and a Scotch-Brite pad.
- Lubricate lightly with dry silicone or graphite. Do not use grease.
- Check the return spring. Replace it if it is weak or broken.
- Make sure everything slides freely by hand before you reassemble.
Parts and help
- The serial number is on the decal at the rear or left side of the frame.
- Any Bobcat dealer parts counter can give the solenoid part number, the fuse rating and the exact location from the serial number.
- On YouTube, search: Bobcat 883 traction lock solenoid
Results log
- [ ] Fuse rating and condition:
- [ ] Blows again with new fuse? (yes/no)
- [ ] Engine-off and idle voltage:
- [ ] Flash count with solenoid unplugged:
- [ ] Coil ohms / pin-to-body ohms:
- [ ] Fix that worked: